“Behold the castle, ruined by delusion, as it lays still haunted, ‘mongst the spirits of the dead, caught in wretched obsession in this world of carnage, shall never change from past to present…”

For Autumn Winter 2020, Undercover unveiled “Fallen Man,” a co-ed collection referencing Throne of Blood, Akira Kurosawa’s 1957 adaptation of Shakespeare’s tragedy Macbeth. Jun Takahashi staged a 25-minute hauntingly beautiful and poetic performance centered on choreography by Damien Jalet, whose relationship with the brand dates back to 2007, when he debuted his first choreographic work, “Venus in Furs”, inspired by an Undercover garment.

Set within a circular arena resembling a target board, four dancers performed a tense, poetic three-segment piece echoing the tragic arc of Kurosawa’s film, while models orbited them continuously.

Despite Undercover’s long history of Western inspired garments, this marked the first collection where Takahashi directly referenced his Japanese lineage. Scottish influences such as duck boots, tartan, berets, knits and Japanese traditional wear like zori sandals, haori, noragi, and hakama were all abstracted into contemporary garments such as hoodies, scarves, chest rigs, and rider jackets. The layered styling, occasionally accented with iconic film stills and punctuated by a palette of black and earthen tones with flashes of red resembling blood, formed modern reinterpretations of Mongols, samurai, and huntsmen.

This leather rider jacket features a quilted shoulder and front that resembles plated armor.

Measurements:
Length 66cm
Shoulder 43cm
Ptp 50cm
Sleeve 66cm
Hem 53cm